This visit to Bologna has been very relaxed and low stress. Last night’s dinner was a memorable one in a tiny restaurant where dishes a grandmother might have cooked were elevated to the sublime — a mortadella and potato sformatino (sort of soufflé), eggplant Parmesan, white meat lasagne, and tiramisu.
Today we began in the municipal art gallery in the state rooms on the second floor, reached by two of the longest flights of stairs I have ever seen. It being Sunday, the building, parts of which date from 1287, was hosting a series of weddings in a large room with two enormous chandeliers. The collection was largely medieval, with paintings stretching through the 18th century. Included was a number of paintings of civic leaders — I doubt the sitters could have been pleased with their supposed likenesses. There were several iterations of Mary of Mercy — the souls of faithful gathered under Mary’s cloak — a favorite painting for cemetery chapels.
In the center of the city is the basilica of San Petronio, the city’s patron. Construction began in 1390, and finished in 1663,with the facing on the facade complete only to the top of the doors.
Much of the afternoon was taken up with a leisurely light lunch on an unusually beautiful square. It was a perfect way to spend a Sunday in Bologna. (I went to church yesterday afternoon.)
