Author: Joseph
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Burgos, day two
It is easy to overdose on religious art in Burgos as there is so very much of it. Visiting only the cathedral today would have provided a lifetime’s worth of images to ponder. In addition to the cathedral I visited San Gil’s Church, a museum of church altar pieces, and the remarkable Royal Monasterio (convent)…
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Burgos, day one
Arrived today in Burgos. So far getting around by public transport has been a breeze and inexpensive — it is such a great relief not worrying about a car. Burgos’s cathedral (third largest in Spain after Sevilla and Toledo) dates to 1221, although construction continued for centuries. The cathedral is on the side of a…
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Bilbao, day two
A lovely day exploring Bilbao beyond the Guggenheim. The oldest part of the city — Casco — was a delightful place to wander with the cathedral, a few other notable churches, narrow streets lined with colorful houses, and a truly amazing market where one could buy ready to eat food (pinxtos) as well as beef,…
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Bilbao
Rain. Lots of rain. The long streak of good weather ended today with heavy rains. Between San Sebastián and Bilbao I saw almost nothing of the countryside because the rain was so heavy. Whereas San Sebastian was small, quiet and charming, Bilbao is bustling and busy….but it has its own charm. Broad streets radiate from…
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Sunday in San Sebastián
Last night’s dinner at Dani Lopez’s Kokotxa was one of the best meals I remember with impeccable service. Flavors were clear and distinct and mixed in creative ways to make the most of contrasts of texture and taste. It was a superb dinner. Today I climbed Monte Urgull, one of the two hills that guards…
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San Sebastián, day two
Even though it is rainy the city is beautiful. There are two perfect crescent beaches: the smaller one for surfers; the larger and calmer one for swimmers. The sand on both beaches is golden and they open onto the Bay of Biscay — southern England is somewhere out there beyond the horizon. The streets —…
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San Sebastián
At last in Spain. We took the TGV (the fast train) from Paris. The train was indeed fast and comfortable. Our seat-mates were a couple from Metz on their way to Biarritz to celebrate an aunt’s 99th birthday. They were a talkative couple, which provided opportunity to practice my French, although I mostly listened. The…
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St Eustache
Along with Notre Dame, St Germain-des-Pres, and St Sulpice, St Eustache, near the markets of Les Halles, is considered one of the great churches of Paris. These churches are also famous for their organists — Vierne, Dupre, Durufle, Langlais, Alain…. Oddly, I heard not a note of organ music in any of these churches, their…
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Saint Denis
Just north of Paris, Saint Denis is the burial place of scores of kings and queens beginning with Clovis (died 511). Louis XVIII ordered scattered royal remains and funeral monuments brought to Saint Denis in the early 19th century. Loose bones were deposited in an ossuary in the crypt and funeral monuments abound in the…