Category: Spain

Rain. Lots of rain. The long streak of good weather ended today with heavy rains. Between San Sebastián and Bilbao I saw almost nothing of the countryside because the rain was so heavy. Whereas San Sebastian was small, quiet and charming, Bilbao is bustling and busy….but it has its own charm. Broad streets radiate from…

Last night’s dinner at Dani Lopez’s Kokotxa was one of the best meals I remember with impeccable service. Flavors were clear and distinct and mixed in creative ways to make the most of contrasts of texture and taste. It was a superb dinner. Today I climbed Monte Urgull, one of the two hills that guards…

Even though it is rainy the city is beautiful. There are two perfect crescent beaches: the smaller one for surfers; the larger and calmer one for swimmers. The sand on both beaches is golden and they open onto the Bay of Biscay — southern England is somewhere out there beyond the horizon. The streets —…

At last in Spain. We took the TGV (the fast train) from Paris. The train was indeed fast and comfortable. Our seat-mates were a couple from Metz on their way to Biarritz to celebrate an aunt’s 99th birthday. They were a talkative couple, which provided opportunity to practice my French, although I mostly listened. The…