Ely is a charming, small cathedral town atop its hill in the midst of largely now-drained fens. I had expected a hill more like Mont St Michel, but was pleased to find a knoll instead, especially as the train station was at the foot of the hill. The present cathedral is the third on the site. Its predecessor was torn down soon after William the Conqueror arrived — he wanted England rebuilt in Norman style. The building is a sublime example of Norman architecture — the columns, triforium, pulpitum (stone screen dividing chancel from nave) were all fine examples of Norman architecture. Without doubt the crowning glory of Ely is the great lantern over the crossing. Built in 1321, when the central spire collapsed, the lantern is (at least from the exterior) too big for the building; but seen from the floor of the crossing looking up is exquisitely proportioned. I found it a challenge to take my eyes off the lantern; it fascinated me.
In my few days in Ely I thoroughly explored the cathedral, attended daily evensong, and enjoyed walking about the small town. The cathedral towers and lantern can be seen all over the town. A beautiful park runs from the cathedral, across the monastic ruins, to the foot of the hill. Part of the park was reserved for the most contented cows I’ve encountered. A superb museum of stained glass is found in the cathedral triforium.
