Ferrara was a great surprise. Once home to the Este family, the city today is more bustling working city than tourist mecca. The city is, however, rich in museums. At the center of everything is the moated Castello Estense, a formidable presence. The Estense were patrons of the arts whose legacy lives on in the city. One of the more interesting museums was the Schiafonia where murals of city and country life have been uncovered and restored, a remarkable accomplishment as the palace spent many decades as a tobacco warehouse. The cathedral was “in restauro” and not much at all was to be seen inside, but the piazza was a splendid place for an afternoon Aperol spritz.
