One of Italy’s more remarkable cities is Ravenna, last home of the Roman Empire in the West after the fall of Rome. Ravenna, especially in its churches, has an eastern church feel with its splendid mosaics, among the world’s best. When Charlemagne visited San Vitale at the beginning of the 9th century, he declared it the world’s most beautiful building. Mosaics not to be missed are in San Vitale, Sant’ Apollinare Nuovo, the Orthodox baptistry, the archbishop’s chapel, and the jewel-like so-called tomb of Galla Placida (she was not buried there). My favorite of all, however, is Sant’ Apollinare in Classe, a few kilometers south of Ravenna. The city granted Dante refuge after his expulsion from Rome; he is buried in a neoclassical tomb on the grounds of San Francesco. We also made a hectic sidetrip to San Marino, one of the world’s smallest countries, south of Ravenna.