Last night’s dinner at Dani Lopez’s Kokotxa was one of the best meals I remember with impeccable service. Flavors were clear and distinct and mixed in creative ways to make the most of contrasts of texture and taste. It was a superb dinner.
Today I climbed Monte Urgull, one of the two hills that guards the harbor, La Concha. It was an easy climb, but the height afforded superb views of San Sebastián and the coast. A few English are buried in a cemetery near the foot of the hill, looking toward England somewhere on the other side of the Bay of Biscay. Monte Urgull was covered in wildflowers, cream-colored primroses, narcissi.
In the afternoon we attended a whistle concert, a group of young people and adults playing a distinctive Basque fife-like instrument that is held like a clarinet. They held the whistle in one hand and with the other hand beat small snare drums.
Shrimp and coconut
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