Zagreb was a delightful surprise. The city is divided into lower and upper (Gradec) towns. The area around the 11th century cathedral is known as Kaptol. Further away from the city center was a neighborhood of Secessionist and Art Nouveau buildings, the most interesting to me was the 1912 Saint Blaise Church. Not far from the cathedral is a large park surrounded by public buildings anchored by the train station and the Esplanade Hotel where Rebecca West stayed. Her massive “Black Lamb, Grey Falcon” was my guide for much of this trip.
